About five years ago I decided to start coloring my hair. It wasn’t because the gray creeping into my straight shoulder-length dark brown hair bothered me (see photo at left), but because I could no longer get through a job interview and land the job. I was working in the Silicon Valley tech industry as a technical writer with a long history of successful, technical, and complex projects, but suddenly something had changed. I found myself being asked a bevy of bizarre questions in interviews to make a case to pass me by for someone else, someone who didn’t have gray hair.
So after doing some research I decided to use pure, natural organic henna from Rajasthan to cover my gray and become a redhead. I loved the color and it worked very well with my coloring. The henna hair developed into a burgundy dark red after many henna applications over several months, and even better, I was back to landing the job, despite being in my mid to late 60’s. The secret seemed to be that I just wasn’t gray anymore.
Now, 4 years later, retired, and approaching 70, I’ve decided to go back to my natural gray. I have several friends who have gone back to natural gray, and I think they look fantastic. Gray hair is beautiful.
If you have henna hair and want to get back to gray naturally, you can follow this blog, which I will update as I progress through the steps outlined below.
Henna is a permanent color that fades very slowly. I couldn’t just let it all grow out over time because I would have two-tone hair: gray and black on top, and orange on the bottom. When burgundy henna fades, it fades to orange as you use less of it.
At first I considered using a chemical-based, non-permanent color over my hair as it grew out, but Darcy Vasudev owner of Henna Guru in San Francisco encouraged me to stay away from the chemicals. That wasn’t a hard sell for me because I try to live as cleanly as I can. Also, my hair is very fine and chemicals tend to be very hard on it – drying it out and making it break and frizz.
Important note: You cannot use chemical-based anything (permanent colors, permanent waves, hair bleach, etc.) on henna hair when the henna you use contains metallic salts. The metallic salts interact with the chemicals in horrible ways and ruin your hair. Always use pure henna with no metallic salts. Herbs are fine; just no metallic salts. For more information see Henna for Hair.
This blog chronicles my journey from the first step, which I took on August 8, 2018, to when I reach my final natural gray at some point in the future. I will update this blog every 2 to 3 weeks as I take each step, and describe any modifications I make to the process along the way.
Before I started, I was using 75 grams of henna mixed in about 1 cup of hot chamomile tea. The herbal tea activates the henna and turns it into a paste, which I applied thickly to my hair and washed out 1 to 2 hours later.
Note: Henna that contains herbs can be mixed with hot water instead of chamomile tea. Henna needs to be mixed with something acidic like black tea, herbal, tea or herbs to activate.
I worked with Darcy at Henna Guru to map out a way to get me from burgundy to natural gray using sliding proportions of henna, cassia, and indigo. The cassia and indigo activate the henna, so no need to use herbal tea.
We decided to do it like this:
- Lighten the burgundy/orange tones of the henna by gradually decreasing the amount of henna from 75 gms to 5 gms.
- Darken the orange tones in the henna by adding a small amount of indigo that I gradually increase as I progress through the steps. As Darcy explains on her site, hair that has a lot of gray, needs some henna to bind the indigo to the hair.
- Add enough neutral colored conditioning cassia to bulk up the mix so it covers all of the hair without adding color.
I also use Triphala shampoo by SoulTree, as a second wash to my hair after washing out the herbs with my regular shampoo. Triphala shampoo contains shikakai, which is an herb that darkens henna hair. Interestingly, this shampoo also contains some henna in a lesser amount. Anyway, if you want to tone down the brightness of the henna, I find that this shampoo, and probably any shampoo that contains enough shikakai, helps to do that.